Olasul Blog

Bird's Surf Shed

Thu, 17 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

San Diego recently added its own surf film festival to the growing roster of those taking place in cities across the US. This festival has an advantage, however, in the form of venue - the festival was held in Bird's Surf Shed, an inconic Qunoset hut that houses owner Bird Huffman's collection of over 600 boards. What began as a personal storage facitility quickly morphed into a place for his surfboard shaper friends to come together, then into a retail shop and soon enough, a screening room that served as the backdrop for the three day festival. Boards in the room date back to 1935, but Huffman insists that the vintage collection is meant to be used rather than looked at. He encourages surfers and shapers to try them out in the ocean and loves to share the stories behind each one.

^{Bird's Surf Shed before the festival began.}

^{Bird's during the first San Diego Surf Film Festival.}

^{The outside of the Quonset hut during the festival.}

^{Surfboards line every surface of the building.}

Inspiration: Chicha Morada

Tue, 15 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Welcome to the first post in our Inspiration series, which will take a look at the stories and places behind our products. Our Chicha Morada short is named after one of Peru's famed national drinks, a sweet and refreshing non-alcoholic drink made mainly from purple corn, which is renowned for its health benefits. In the case of Chicha Morada, it's boiled with quince, pineapple, cinnamon and clove and sweetened with lime juice and sugar. Like iced tea in the south, you'll find Chica Morada served in restaurants and homes across Peru and available canned and bottled in grocery stores. While fresh purple corn is hard to find in the US, it's possible to make do with purple corn kernels that are widely available online or in stores. Pour a glass from an iced pitcher after an hour or two in the salty surf, and you'll see why we created these shorts. Check out the recipe below:

^{Chicha Morada is commonly served with apple slices.}

Ingredients
3-4 purple corn cobs
1 quince, peeled & cut in 16 pieces
Rind and core of half a golden pineapple
2 cinnamon stick
6 cloves
4 liters of water
1 cup of sugar
1/4 cup of fresh squeezed lime juice

Preparation

Combine purple corn cobs, quince, pineapple, cinnamon stick, cloves and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil.
Turn down heat and simmer until the color darkens and the mixture begins to reduce in volume, about 45 minutes.
Cool and strain completely. Stir in sugar until dissolved.
Cool completely. Add lime juice.
Chill and serve.

^{The finished product is a deep purple filled with spice and fruit flavors.}

^{Our version of the Chica Morada.}

Surfing Slabs

Thu, 10 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Slabs are formed by shallow reefs that either stick out of the sea or hold deeper water behind them. They create some of surfing's most hazardous conditions as riders are pushed dangerously close to the shallow formations below. These breaks have created some of the most captivating moments in surf history. At Teahupoo, Tahiti, for instance the water actually moves below sea level as it flows onto the eroded reef and is so thick that the wave is known as the heaviest in the world.

^{Cyclops, in South Australia, is one of the scariest looking slabs and was named after the mythical creature in Homer's The Odyssey.}

^{Waimea shorebreak is one of the best known slabs.

Big Rock break.

A slab in California.

In one of history's most documented rides, Laird rides his millenial wave on August 17, 2000 at Teahupoo. Many still describe it was the most terrifying and deadly wave ever ridden.

An extremely shallow slab in the Pacific Northwest.

The 2012 wave of the year at Teahupoo.

Tasmania.

Shipstern's Bluff break.}

Surfing the Tejo River

Wed, 09 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Proving the lengths that surfers will go to for novel experiences, pro surfer Nico von Rupp recently rode a freak river wave that occurs along the Tejo river in Portugal. The break is created by passing ferries, and varies tremendouly based on luck: the wind and tide as well as the speed and load of the passing vessel have to be just right to create the perfect wave. Von Rupp heard rumors about a man who claimed he had been surfing the wave completely solo for over a decade, and decided immediately to check it out. The spot is about 45 minutes from Lisbon and can only be surfed when the ferry is headed to Lisbon, not on the return trip. Surf culture here is non-existent; waveriders are surrounded by abandoned fish factories from the 1970s.

Waiting for the ferry's daily trip. If they miss it, it'll be a 24-hour wait for the next wave.

^{Paddling toward the ferry as it heads to Lisbon.}

^{Depending upon many variables including wind, sand banks and tide, the wave's size varies tremendously.}

^{Catching a wave. Von Rupp claims the right conditions create a perfect, fast-moving wave.}

^{Tejo River flows into the ocean near Lisbon.}

^{Surfers have to be ready between 7am - 10am, the only time when conditions create the chance for a surfable break.}

Art Brewer Exhibition

Fri, 04 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Legendary surf photographer Art Brewer's works will go on exhibition from June 8-20 at the SVA Gallery in New York City. Art has spent 40 years circling the globe and is known for capturing the essence of surf culture. Along the way, he has pioneered techniques to achieve shots amid the inherent challenges of big wave shooting. The exhibition will showcase 150 photos from Art's archive of images from the 1960s onward, including many never before seen portraits of surf legends as well as stuning landscapes. SVA Gallery is located at 209 East 23rd Street.

Squish Studio

Tue, 01 May 2012 07:00:00 EDT

A whitewashed artists' studio has risen along the desolate, rocky coastline of Fogo Island off the coast of Newfoundland. Squish Studio was designed by Saunders Architecture for transient artists who make the voyage to immerse themselves in their work with only the crashing waves and shifting panoramas as company. The structure is supported by a series of stilts and takes advantage of its squished shape to deflect the constantly roaring coastal winds. Solar panels placed atop a nearby hill are the only source of power for the studio's electricity and small kitchen.

^{Squish Studio, located on Fogo Island, Candada.}

^{The south side of the studio.

Northern views from inside the studio.

The illuminated studio at dusk.

Artists work with the background noise of constantly crashing waves.

View from the fields surrounding the studio.}

Danny Hess x Olasul

Thu, 26 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Recently, we were lucky enough to team up with San Francisco surfboard shaper Danny Hess to create limited edition Olasul x Danny Hess handplanes. They're the perfect accompaniment to a day at the beach and are guaranteed to take your bodysurfing to the next level. Read on for Danny's pointers and to see how we went from bodysurfing on pool kick boards to these.

^{Olasul x Danny Hess handplanes are stamped with a limited edition logo and are available in fir or poplar.}

^{A bodysurfer glides across the face of a wave using a Danny Hess handplane.}

Olasul: How did you start using planes to bodysurf?
Danny: I started making handplanes for bodysurfing when I was 16. I was a lifeguard at this really great bodysurfing beach. I could bodysurf on duty. One day, I liberated a kick board from the nearby pool and started using it as a handplane. That led to me shaping the kick board to get the best ride. Soon I was using all sorts of materials and found objects to make handplanes for myself and my friends. 20 years later they've evolved into what they are now.

O: What's the learning curve like for someone just starting to use a handplane?
D: I believe using a handplane is really intuitive. I've taught many people that have never surfed before to do it and they're always riding waves on their first go. As long as you're a competent swimmer and you have a decent pair of fins you're ready to go.

O: What are the ideal conditions?
D: They beauty of body surfing and using a handplane is that there are no perfect conditions. You don't need great waves to have a really good time doing it. As long as there is some energy in the water you're stoked.

O: Where do you find the inspiration for your designs?
D: I have a great crew of people I go handplaneing with. We're always testing out new ideas and ways of approaching a wave. My favorite part of being a surf craft builder is designing boards that allow me to have new experiences in the water.

O: What's your most memorable surfing or bodysurfing story?
D: I held a bodysurfing contest here at Ocean Beach, SF last November. It was cold and rainy and the waves were huge with lots of current. Despite all of that, we had hundreds of people come from all over the country to enter this super grassroots contest. The best bodysurfers in the world were all out there together. It was an amazing sight to see.

Surf Bags

Wed, 25 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

To create our new Atlantico and Pacifico surf bags, we considered what would make the perfect bag for trekking to and from the beach. What came to mind was an indestructible waterproof creation that could handle anything we threw at it. After repurposing heavy-duty industrial materials including vinyl coated polyester and seatbelt material, we assembled them by hand in Brooklyn, NY and added a secure D-ring closure. Available now in navy and white.

Glowing Waves

Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

One of nature's coolest visual phenomenons is the sight of brightly glowing water under starry skies. This bioluminescence is caused by phytoplankton giving off a brilliant blue glow and can be seen in oceans around the world. The best theory for why bioluminescence occurs is that the lights acts as a warning to potential predators.

^{Phytoplankton wash ashore in the Lakshadweep islands off the coast of India.}

^{Spots of light line the shore on Vaadhoo Island in the Maldives.}

^{The water lights up behind aircraft carrier U.S.S. Carl Vinson. Pilots sometimes use bioluminescence left in the wake of aircraft carriers to trace their way back after night missions.}

^{Waves light up during a red tide event in Leucadia, CA in 2011.}

^{A beach in the Florida Everglades.}

^{An island beach in the Maldives.}

^{The beach in Leucadia, CA.}

Ocean Current

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

NASA created this visualization to illustrate the movement of global ocean currents. It's a great reminder of the scale and force behind the sliver of sea that we glimpse from shore.

Archipelago Cinema

Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Architecture firm Ole Scheeren is interested in creating alternative realities. To that end, they recently introduced a floating cinema during the Film on the Rocks festival in Thailand. Named Archipelago Cinema, the project is situated between two towering rocks in a calm bay, and was constructed using the same techniques with which fisherman build lobster farms. The rafts were built using recycled materials and tied together to resemble a grouping of islands. Attendees were ferried to the glowing rafts under the cover of darkness during the final day of the festival. Ole Scheeren plans for the archipelago to be moved to new locations so that others can enjoy the magic of film while floating on the sea.

Peru's New Wave

Thu, 05 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Peru's shifting coastline has created a new wave in Paracas Reserve. The break formed after an earthquake in 2007 triggered landslides that altered the ocean's floor. 'Huaco Point' breaks left over a sandy bottom and offers a novel challenge to adventurous surfers.

^{Looking out over the wave against the cliffs of Paracas Reserve.}

^{The swell measured around 6 feet on this day.}

^{Huaco Point is already being praised for the length of its left-breaking wave.}

^{Climbing back up from the surf.}

Photographers: Jeff Divine

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Jeff Divine has captured many of surfing's most iconic shots since he began snapping surfers in his native La Jolla, California in the early 60s. Eventually, he made his way to Surfing Magazine and began crisscrossing the globe in search of the best shots. For over 45 years, Divine has documented the evolution of surf, its most extreme waves and coolest personalities. Take a look at these shots, all from his work in the 1970s.

Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholemew, Backdoor, Pipeline, Oahu, HI 1974

Tom Ortner, Windansea, La Jolla, CA 1971

Andy Tyler, Windansea, La Jolla, CA 1970

Tony "Blinky" Blinkworth, Pipeline, Oahu, HI 1976

Pipeline, Oahu, HI 1974

Rock Pile, North Shore, Oahu, HI 1974

Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew, Pipeline, Oahu, HI

Gary and Owl Chapman, Honolua Bay, Maui, HI 1974

Sunset Cliffs, Pont Loma, San Diego CA 1972

Wave of Matter

Tue, 27 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Wave of Matter is a kinetic sculpture created by Finnish artists Tommi Grönlund and Petteri Nisunen. Grönlund and Nisunen created the sculpture to explore movement, sound and shape. As the table tilts from side to side, the bearings imitate the sound of the sea and the movement of waves as they retreat from the shoreline.

Vintage Hawaii

Mon, 26 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EDT

Snapshots of vintage Hawaii from the 1940s to 70s.

Kalakaua Avenue, 1967

North Shore, 1972

Duke Kahanamoku with the San Onofre Surf Club in Honolulu, Hawaii in 1948.

Waikiki

HNL Airport, Pan-Am Clipper Glory of the Skies, 1950s

Kau Kau Korner Restaurant, 1940s

Kilauea eruption, 1960

Night fishing, 1948

Kainalu, Waikiki Beach

Deepsea Challenger

Wed, 21 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EDT

For the last 8 years, James Cameron has been building a secret submarine in Australia that will transport him to the Challenger Deep, otherwise known as the bottom of the Marianas Trench and earth's deepest crevice. Cameron innovated the Deepsea Challenger to function as a vertical torpedo, which will maximize his time on the ocean's floor during his solo trip. By the time he reaches the bottom, Cameron will be alone, 6.8 miles below the earth's surface and barely able to move due to space constraints. If all goes according to plan, Cameron will be able to explore the bottom for 6 hours, during which 8 tons of pressure per square inch will be exerted on his vessel. While 12 men have walked on the moon, only 2 have ventured to the Challenger Deep.

Surf Nomad: Biarritz, France

Fri, 16 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EDT

^{Surfers under the castle at Côte des Basques beach.}

As far as cosmopolitan surfing experiences go, Biarritz is at the top of the list. A former whaling town on France's southwestern coast, it has served more recently as the destination for globetrotting surfers who like their waves served with a side of culture. Even surfing history in Biarritz has a touch of glamour - Hollywood screenwriter Peter Viertel introduced the sport there more than 50 years ago. Viertel noticed the break at Grand Plage, sent for his board from Los Angeles, and lit the spark that created Europe's surfing capital.

Unless you're in the practice of flying your equipment in from California á la Viertel, stop by one of the many beachside shacks that rent everything from boards to wetsuits. Then, head to Côte des Basques for a fun, approachable right-hand break where a sandbar point lets you surf in the shadow of a French castle. Surf vans and their makeshift clotheslines dot the stone wall along the shore. Shift your attention to Grand Plage for high-performance waves that roll in toward the town's gothic casino. Peaks in the middle here hollow out as they move over the inside sandbar. World-class breaks are within reach just north of Biarritz at Les Cavaliers and Hossegor.

^{Colorful umbrellas line Grand Plage, the spot of choice for Biarritz's more serious surfers.}

If you've progressed from Côte de Basques to Grand Plage, you'll find that the boardwalk above the beach fills with people in search of pre-dinner aperitifs as the sun sets. Don't worry if you're still working on standing up at Côte de Basques - there are two bars on its less populated coastline. Le Surfing is one of them, and is filled with surf posters and rows of vintage boards, not to mention an oceanside terrace. Fellow surfers will be ready and waiting to celebrate the day's triumphs over grilled food and chilled beers. Les Cent Marches is another option for post-surfing recovery. It's located in a tree-shrouded cliff top shack that serves tapas, champagne and ringside seats to the best sunset views in Biarritz.

^{Vintage surfboards line the ceiling at Le Surfing, Biarritz's famed post-beach destination.}

Hotel choices here range from pure luxury to comforting French country style. La Maison du Lierre is a small, charming hotel that serves le petit déjeuner in their small garden. La Maison is only a 5 minute walk to the sea and would fit perfectly into a laid back surf weekend. On the other end of the spectrum, the Hotel du Palais, the former palace of Napoleon III's wife, is the most famous hotel in Biarritz. No matter your choice, Biarritz's combination of old world elegance and barefoot surf culture is captivating.

^{Hotel du Palais sits directly above the crashing waves of Grand Plage.}

Nomad Essentials

Contacts:
Hotel du Palais
Hotel Rates: Begin at 350€ / night
Tel: +33 05 59 41 64 00
http://www.hotel-du-palais.com

La Maison du Lierre
Hotel Rates: Begin at 56€ / night
Tel: +33 05 59 24 06 00
http://www.maisondulierre.com

Le Surfing Restaurant
Address: 9 Boulevard du Prince de Galles
Tel: +33 05 59 24 78 72

Les Cent Marches
Address: Square Jean-Baptiste Lascale
Tel: +33 05 59 24 75 81

When to Go: Biarritz's temperate climate makes it enjoyable for most of the year. Avoid visiting during low season from January to March, when some hotels and shops close.

How to Get Here: Flights from New York to Biarritz can be found starting at $1,200 for July travel dates. Or, fly to Bilbao, Spain (fares start at $700) and drive an hour north to Biarritz.

Bodysurfing

Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EDT

In honor of our new handplane collaboration with surfboard shaper Danny Hess, check out these amazing bodysurfing shots from Life Magazine.

Film: Of Men and Mavericks

Wed, 07 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EST

Curtis Hanson's new surf film "Of Men and Mavericks" takes a look at the infamous Mavericks break in Santa Cruz, California and profiles Jay Moriarty, one of its most respected riders. Moriarty landed on the cover of Surfer magazine at age 16 when he was photographed wiping out on a 30 foot Mavericks swell. Hanson relied on local big wave riders and board shapers to capture the mystique that surrounds this massive wave. "Of Men and Mavericks" is due out this fall.

^{Jay Moriarty surfing Mavericks.}

^{A winter swell at Mavericks.}

^{Real life big-wave rider Greg Long with Gerald Butler.}

^{Surfers at Mavericks.}

^{Actor Channon Roe with legendary board shaper Bob Pearson.}

^{Riders on the beach at Mavericks.}

^{Jay Moriarty's wipeout was immortalized on the cover of Surfer Magazine in 1995.}

Peru's March Swells

Tue, 06 Mar 2012 07:00:00 EST

As the southern hemisphere transitions from summer to winter, South Pacific storms began to ramp up. Peru's 1600 miles of open coastline mean that it picks up plenty of the accompanying swells. Weather forecasts and models are promising a great month of surf.

^{Cerro Azul, a famed spot memorialized by the Beach Boys.}

^{Chilca can hold massive waves measuring up to 25'.}

^{No need to worry about sharks in Peru, but plenty of dolphins will show up to surf.

Panic Point in Northern Peru.

The world's longest left breaking wave is in Chicama, Peru.

Here's a shot of local Toto de Romana at Pico Alto - a stop on the Big Wave Tour.}

Underwater Project

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 07:00:00 EST

Photographer Mark Tipple focuses on images of swimmers moving beneath massive waves in his native Australia. His unique vantage point showcases the immense power of the ocean.

^{'Envelop,' Summer 2012}

^{'Away,' Summer 2010}

^{'Escape,' Summer 2010}

^{'Ethereal' Summer 2010}

^{'Grasp," Summer 2010}

^{'Navigate,' Summer 2011}

^{'Womb,' Winter 2010}

^{'Cross,' Winter 2010}

Tele-Present Water

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 07:00:00 EST

Sculpture artist David Bowen created an installation of a yellow wooden grid that mimics the rhythm of the Pacific Ocean in real-time. The installation draws data from an Alaskan buoy and transforms it into waves of movement inside the National museum in Wroclaw, Poland.

Cité de l'Océan et du Surf

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 07:00:00 EST

Within sight of the famed surfing beach of Biarritz, France, the Cité de l'Océan et du Surf Museum is aimed at raising awareness of the ocean's role in our lives while exploring the science behind surf and the sea. The building is designed by Solange Fabião and Steven Holl architects and is meant to evoke a giant wave moving toward shore.

^{Two glass boulders contain a surfer's kiosk and the museum's restaurant, and echo the boulders of the nearby shore.}

^{The entrance and underground are meant to convey the feeling of being deep beneath the ocean's surface.}

^{A rendering of the museum in relation to the shores of Biarritz.}
^{Find out more here: stevenholl.com}

Surf Nomad: Batu Karas, Indonesia

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 07:00:00 EST

Far from the tourist crowds of Pangandaran, Batu Karas is an active fishing village in Western Java and quite possibly one of the most chilled out hideaways in the Indonesian archipelago. Luckily for us surfers, this absolutely stunning refuge has fun, rolling waves breaking on its shores most of the year.

_{An afternoon swell at Batu Karas Point}

Batu Karas has two main waves: one breaking at the point and the other over the reef in front of the beach. The point offers a righthand break over a sandy bottom that continues for up to 1300 feet, while the reef break offers fast walls unraveling over a lava reef. If you're in search of more serious waves, saddle up for an exciting cross-country motorbike ride through rice fields, small villages and rivers to reach them. Or, leave the waves behind and board a traditional boat to Green Canyon, where a tropical water gorge creates perfecting swimming spots under and around the area's clear waterfalls. The Pangandaran National Park is one hour away, where white sand beaches are home to wild deer and monkeys swinging overhead.

_{Surfer riding his last wave all the way to the beach}

Directly across from the beach you'll find the Java Cove Beach Hotel, aimed at surfers and independent, adventuresome travelers. Java Cove prides itself on being a small, personal hotel that's plugged into village life. Room types range from basic to deluxe, including surfer pads, designed for those who will spend most waking moments on their boards.

_{One of many emerald green swimming holes around Java Cove.}

Java Cove serves breakfast on the house at their European style Al Fresko restaurant. The hotel leaves Indonesian fare in the hands of the locals, encouraging guests to visit warungs, or locally owned businesses. These cafes offer fresh seafood as well as Indonesia's famous fruit juices and lassis. As the sun sets, head up to the bar at Java Cove, where you'll find beer, wine and cocktails. Drinking hard liquor in public is frowned upon here, but look at it this way - you'll be up bright and early to tackle the first sets of the day.

_{The view from your room as a surfer walks by.}

Nomad Essentials

Contact:
javacovebeachhotel.com
info@javacovebeachhotel.com

Hotel Rates: Between $50 and $100/night.
Board Rental: $8/day
Surf Lessons: $20 for 2 hours

When to Go: It's best to visit between March and June, when conditions at both the point and the reef are ideal.

How to Get Here: Flights from New York to Jakarta can be found starting at $1,200. From there, it's a one hour fight on susiair.com to Batu Karas and a 15 minute drive to Java Cove.

Surfing with Sharks

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 07:00:00 EST

Close encounters while surfing in South Africa's shark infested waters.

http://www.surfingandsharks.com